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Frequently Asked Questions Trade Partners

General information

What you need to think about when buying a radiator...

Who can help me if my radiator isn't working properly?

Pay attention to our advice in the operating instructions. If after testing the described functions, the system does not work, please fill out the service technician form (in the event of a complaint, do not forget the order number) to request assistance

Finishes and colours

All about the radiator's appearance...

In which colours are the radiators available?

Arbonia radiators are available in all the colours you can imagine. RAL, NCS and our colour trends "New Inspirations" are just as obtainable as any other colour you may wish for. Please see our colour chart for examples or contact us!

Can I only get Arbonia accessories in RAL 9016?

No, accessories such as wall brackets or holders are normally available in the same colour as the radiator. Feel free to ask us.

What do the terms AF, CF and SF mean on the Arbonia colour chart?

AF (All Finish) = Standard white RAL 9016

CF (Colour Finish) = Selected RAL/NCS or other requested colours

SF (Super Finish) = Requested colours

Electric operation

All about electric operated radiators... 

Which Arbonia radiators can also be operated using electricity?

All products, except for Entreetherm and convectors can also be run on electricity, taking into account the minimum dimensions. Please ask our technical advisor for support in choosing the correct radiator and heating insert.

Are there any Arbonia radiators that can work with electricity as well as via the central heating system?

Yes. Arbonia offers many models with so-called mixed operation models. Our in-house advisors will be happy to give you more details.

Technology

All about radiator function...

Must I drain the water from the heater before changing the valve?

No, you only need to release the pressure from the radiator in question. You can do this by closing the connectors (flow and return).

Can a radiator be damaged by frost?

Every year in winter it gets to that time again when we hear of radiators that are suddenly deformed or start to leak. Precisely in those rooms that are hardly heated in winter or not at all, the room temperature can drop below zero. These rooms particularly include garages, cellars, bedrooms, guest rooms and attics. But a misunderstanding in terms of cost awareness on the part of the user can also lead to these problems if they turn the radiator off at the thermostatic valve or turn off the whole system completely.

How do I recognise frost damage?

Everyone knows what happens when you put a full bottle of water in the freezer. The same thing happens in a heating system. Water expands when frozen. However, as it has no room to expand in a completely full radiator, great pressure builds up. This pressure can reach more than 50 bar. When typical frost damage occurs, the radiator is irregularly deformed. Mostly in the top and/or bottom water pipe. Furthermore, in most cases, cracks can appear in the coating and a lentil-shaped blistering of the coating occurs over the welding points. In addition, leaks are not uncommon after thawing.

How do I avoid frost damage?

The basic rule is: Never completely switch off the heating during the heating period! This also applies to long periods of absence. Modern heating controls have settings for frost control or reduced operation mode. The thermostatic valves on your radiator should never be fully closed in winter either. Like the heating controls, they also have a frost protection setting. Further details are provided in the operating instructions of your heating system.

Where are the noises in my heating system coming from?

Noises in heating systems can have numerous causes. We can differentiate between noises in the radiator itself and those which, for example, are transmitted by the pipes and then amplified in the radiator. Noises arising from the heating system only occur when in operating mode. If these noises also occur outside of the heating period, it can be assumed that, for example, knocks to the radiator or pipes are to blame. When in operating mode, the radiators themselves are very rarely the source of the noise. A 1m long radiator expands by about 0.5mm with a 50ºC temperature change. Even if sound-dampening brackets are not fitted, this is not enough to produce noises. A specialist is normally able to find the cause of the noise very quickly.

  • Ticktacking (mostly shortly before the valve closes): Generally points to inverted flow and return.
  • Hissing or whistling: Differential pressure too high due to an excessively large pump or pump stage, no hydraulic balance.
  • Gurgling: Air in the radiator.
  • Ticking: Tension in the pipes, tight thermostatic valve.
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